Ecuadorian cuisine is always accompanied by a sauce, sometimes spicy, sometimes not so much, with the intention of adding flavor to the food. This sauce is called ají, for its main ingredient. This millennial fruit has belonged to the culinary culture of Ecuador for over 6,000 years. The oldest remains were found in the Real Alto area, which is now the province of Santa Elena. Since then, ají has become part of Ecuadorian gastronomic customs, being widely used in various recipes and also served whole as an accompaniment, becoming one of the most spicy and famous species in the world.
Millennial origins of ají
There are several theories about the origin of ají. One theory suggests that navigator Christopher Columbus was responsible for introducing the fruits of ají to the American continent, along with the habit of consuming them. On the other hand, a Latin version states that ají is a fruit native to South America, with more than 25 species, all domesticated since pre-Hispanic times. It is said that ají plants originated in the Andes and were distributed throughout southern and central America thanks to birds that ate these fruits and dispersed its seeds. Recently, a study by archaeologists from the University of Calgary in Canada and the University of Missouri in the United States confirmed that ají is a Ecuadorian fruit. This research team traced the long history of cultivated ají by analyzing microfossils of starch found on stones used to grind the seeds of this plant. These are the oldest records known to date. These starch traces were found in seven locations, with the oldest in Ecuador, dating back approximately 6,100 years. It seems that traces of ají do not get eliminated during cooking, so the traces found in containers where this fruit was cooked millions of years ago allowed researchers to determine its origin. According to the study, Ecuador is the oldest place where starch grains of hot ají were found among the seven sites where traces of this food were discovered in the American continent. The Ecuadorian grains, found in Loma Alta and Real Alto, date back about 6,100 years, while those found in other areas of the continent are between 5,600 and 500 years old. However, despite its origin, ají did not stay only in the Americas. When Europeans arrived, they also included it as an ingredient in their cuisine. That’s why there are many theories about the origin of ají.
Plurals, multicolors, diverse, and heterogeneous
In Ecuador, there are several types of ají, present in all regions, from the Pacific coasts to the Andes and the Amazon rainforest. All are popularly named according to their appearance or the reaction they provoke when eaten. Some of their names are: ratón, uña de pava, rocoto, yellow banana, cherry, and the authentic Ecuadorian ají, the creole. The uchu, the name of ají in Quichua, is directly responsible for adding a particular flavor to Ecuadorian creole dishes. Usually, it is placed whole in preparations so that its flavor is subtly released. Additionally, sauces made with ají vary according to each territory, combining native Ecuadorian products like chochos, tomatillo, zambo seeds, and mání. The chemical compound of ají is called capsaicin, responsible for its spiciness and even creating an addiction to its picante flavor. Capsaicin also releases endorphins, the hormone of pleasure, causing a pleasant sensation after tasting these delicious Ecuadorian peppers.
Today, ají is fused with various products to create unique combinations. Ají with mortiños, little berries, cacao, coconut, or plantains are new experiences that place this millenary ingredient in contemporary kitchens. It’s an excellent ingredient to disguise other flavors: if something doesn’t please the palate, just add a couple of spicy ají and… presto! Dish ready!
